by Daniel B. Botkin, originally published by Perigee Books, a division of Penguin/Putnam, 1999.

This book, originally published as “Passage of Discovery“, is an ecologist’s guide to the first half of the Lewis and Clark trail, their travels up the Missouri River from St. Louis to Three Forks, MT. I have decided to share this book with the readers of my website, and I am going to present the entire book here, one chapter at a time, with a new chapter appearing each week. There are more than 40 chapters. If you follow along and read all of them, you will learn about the entire Missouri River as seen by Lewis and Clark at the beginning of the 19th century, and as I visited it during the 1990s to see what they had seen, and to learn how the countryside had changed. Comparing what Lewis and Clark saw with what we see today is one of the best insights we can get of how nature and environment in American has changed since European settlement. I hope you enjoy it and find it rewarding.

- Daniel B. Botkin

All of the chapters published thus far can be found in the Passage of Discovery category. Please note that they are listed in reverse order of date posted.

More books by Daniel Botkin are available for purchase from the Center For the Study Of the Environment bookstore.

Additional Locations to Visit

For people setting out to retrace the expedition of Lewis and Clark, there are many places to visit in addition to the ones listed as main entries in this book. Some of these are not locations where Lewis and Clark went, but have related historic or natural history features. Some locations are listed for those whose routes of travel bring them closer to one of these rather than one of the major entries. These are cross-referenced to the main entries.

This list is a selection out of many, and as the interest in the Lewis and Clark expedition grows, the number will increase, so it is wise to check with local chambers of commerce, parks and wildlife departments in the states along the route, Bureau of Land Management, U. S. Fish and Wildlife Service and U. S. Forest Service offices.

On the way up the Missouri River, Lewis and Clark passed through lands that are today part of the states of Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa, South and North Dakota, and Montana and information about natural history areas can be obtained from each of these states. The National Park Service publishes a Lewis and Clark Trail Map that can be obtained from the U. S. Government Printing Office or from many locations along the trail.

The locations that follow are on public lands or otherwise have public access. On a map you may see other locations that are closed to the public, including research areas. Some wildlife refuges that are remote and have few visitor facilities are also not included. This is not a list of accommodations, restaurants and other facilities. There are many other travel guides that provide such information.

If you dig around in a big library, you can find 200 or so accounts of people who have tried to follow the entire Lewis and Clark expedition from beginning to end, and to do it exactly as Lewis and Clark did. Such trips are more for adventure and verisimilitude. This book is meant to guide the traveler to experience nature as Lewis and Clark did, as much as is possible today, given the great changes our society has wrought to the countryside. It is also meant to guide the traveler to understand these changes for what they are, both positive and negative. To this end, there are places I suggest you go that are near, but not exactly where the expedition passed, but are the best remaining places to see a certain kind of countryside, or kind of wildlife in a natural or naturalistic setting. There are also sections of the Missouri that are so altered by dams and relatively inaccessible, that I suggest you do not try to follow these unless you are intent on the adventure of reproducing their exact pathway, whatever has happened to that path. Statements in italics are referenced to main entries in the book. The list is from east to west, with some side excursions.

1. Jefferson National Expansion Memorial National Historic Site at the St. Louis Arch, St. Louis, MO. An extensive information exhibit about the Lewis and Clark expedition. Jefferson national Expansion memorial is located in the heart of downtown St. Louis on the Mississippi River. Interstate Routes 44, 55, 64 and 70 converge near the park. The address is 11 North 4^th Street, St. Louis, MO 63102. (314)-425-4465
2. Missouri History Museum in the Jefferson Memorial Building at Forest Park, St. Louis, MO. The museum houses many historic documents and artifacts related to the Lewis and Clark expedition and their time. It is preparing a major exhibit about the Lewis and Clark expedition including some of the natural history collections. PO Box 11940, St. Louis, MO 63112-0040 (314) 746-4599
3. Missouri Botanical Garden, St. Louis MO. One of America’s preeminent botanic gardens, a place to begin learning about plants and their role in nature. Location of the new Flora of North America project. For more information contact Missouri Botanic Garden, 4344 Shaw Blvd., St. Louis, MO (800) 642-8842 or (314)-577-5100.
4. Columbia Bottom, near St. Louis, MO. Drive north on Riverview Drive; the road changes name to Columbia Bottom Road, follow for approximately 1 mile; at a sharp curve the name changes to Strodtman Road; follow road to gate.
5. Missouri Botanical Garden Arboretum, St. Louis MO. Location of restored prairie and oak woodlands using prescribed fires. 30 miles west of St Louis Arch. Interstate 44, Exit 253.P.O. Box 38, Gray Summit, MO 63039. (314)-451-3512
6. Katy Trail from St. Charles to Columbia, MO. A rails-to-trails, biking and hiking trail to view the countryside. The trail passes along the floodplain of the Missouri River. You can see limestone, dolomite and sandstone bluffs. There are picnic tables and other facilities along the trail. The easiest access from St. Louis is River Front Park, near the historic Main Street, in nearby St. Charles. However, you can intersect the Katy Trail at a number of locations. An alternative from St. Charles is to take Interstate 40 west to State Route 94 along the river and stop at the parking areas along the Katy Trail. You can start bicycling on the trail from any of these locations. A pleasant location is at Portland, Missouri, on the north shore of the Missouri River just east of Jefferson City. For information contact the Department of Natural Resources Division of State Parks, PO Box 176, Jefferson City, MO 65102 (800) 334-6946.
7. Stump Island Park The location of the expedition’s campsite of June 10-11, 1804, and given the name “Stump Island” in Clark’s journal. There is an interpretative sign.
8. Jefferson City, MO. One of the access points for Katy Trail State Park. For information contact the Department of Natural Resources Division of State Parks, PO Box 176, Jefferson City, MO 65102 (800) 334-6946.
9. Baltimore Bend, MO. One of the last remaining original bottomland forests. Discussed in more detail in the entry on Arrow Rock State Park: Cottonwoods and the Resiliency of Life. For information about this and other conservation areas managed by the Missouri Department of Conservation, including Blind Pond Lake Conservation Area, Fount Grove, and Bunch Hollow, call Grand Pass Conservation Area, Route 1, Box 62, Miami, MO 65344 (816) 595-2444.
10. National Frontier Trails Center Trails Museum, Independence, MO. A museum about the trails west, especially the Lewis and Clark, Oregon, and Mormon Trails. 318 West Pacific, Independence, MO. (816)-325-7575
11. Tallgrass Prairie national Preserve, Grayslake, Ill.{SEE ARTICLE IN LA TIMES 5/27/99} Discussed in more detail in the entry on Loess Hills State Recreation Area.
12. Leavenworth Landing Park, Leavenworth, Kansas. Located on the Missouri River, this was a major landing site for boats. It is a good place to walk along the Missouri River shore. Take Route 73 into Leavenworth to Spruce Street (Route 92) turn east and go to the river shore which will take you to the park. Located at the cross roads of Esplanade and Choctaw Street. For more information contact Leavenworth Park Community (913)-651-2203.
13. Sugar Lake, north of Atchison, Kansas. Sugar Lake is an oxbow lake; perhaps the lake called “Gosling Lake” by Lewis and Clark where they saw clear water and great quantities of fish and geese. Most oxbow lakes have been drained and converted to farmland. Discussed in more detail in the entry on DeSoto Bend National Wildlife Refuge.
14. Lewis and Clark State Park, south of St. Joseph, MO. Location of an oxbow lake formed when the river cut off a meander. A full-scale replica of the Lewis and Clark keel boat is at the park. The park is located east of where State Route 59 crosses the Missouri River. For further discussion, see the entry on DeSoto Bend National Wildlife Refuge. 801 Lakecrest Blvd., Rushville, MO, 64484. (816)-579-5564
15. Squaw Creek National Wildlife Refuge, near Mound City, Missouri, and Big Lake State Park. The largest oxbow lake along the Missouri River is located here. This area is used by more than 275 species of birds including migrating waterfowl: white pelicans, great blue herons, pintails, teals, mallards, snow geese, Canada geese, and cormorants. Squaw Creek is a place to see many of the species of wildlife that Lewis and Clark saw in the easternmost part of the journey, and it is also one of the southernmost areas of loess hills. From Interstate 29 take Exit 79 40 miles north of St. Joseph, MO to Route 159 west, which goes to the Squaw Creek National Wildlife Refuge Headquarters. Squaw Creek National Wildlife Refuge, PO Box 101, Mound City, MO 64470 (816) 442-3187.
16. Museum of the Missouri River History at Nebraska State Recreation Area, Brownville, NE. Location of the steam-powered side-wheel dredging boat, The Captain Meriwether Lewis, one of the boats that channelized the Missouri River between 1932 and 1969 and is now a designated National Historic Landmark. DIRECTIONS? Discussed in more detail in the entry on Columbia and The Big Muddy. For additional information contact Cave State Park, RR 1, Box 30, Shubert, NE (402) 825-3341.
17. Indian Cave State Park, Brownville, NE. This 3,000 acre park has excellent views of the Missouri River and its floodplain. There are 20 miles of hiking trails, horseback trail rides and cruises on the Missouri River. It is located 10 miles south of Brownville and five miles east on S-64E. For more information write or call Indian Cave State Park, RR 1, Box 30, Shubert, NE 68437 (402)-883-2575.
18. Nebraska Mitigation Projects. There are supported by the Nebraska Department of Game and Parks. At this time, Hamburg Bend is functioning while the other five are in a planning stage; for some, land acquisition has been completed. The other five are: Blackbird-Tieville-Upper Decatur Bends; Middle Decatur Bend; Tobacco Island (3 ½ miles south of Plattesmouth, Nebraska); Kansas Bend (north of Peru, Nebraska); Langdon Bend (near the Cooper Nuclear Power Station); and Rush Bottom Bend (near Rulo, Nebraska). For further discussion, see the entries on The Big Muddy, Grand Pass, and Hamburg Bend. These will develop over time. For their status and visitor facilities, contact the Nebraska Game and Parks Commission, 2200 N. 33rd St., P.O. Box 30370, Lincoln, NE 68503-0370.
19. Wabash Trace Nature Trail on way to Omaha, NE. The trail is 63 miles long and proceeds from Council Bluffs, Iowa southeast to Blanchard, Iowa. It winds through river valleys that are tributaries of the Missouri, through hills and fields, sometimes within a few miles of the Missouri River. For information contact Bill Spitznagle (president), (402)-280-6835. SWINT P.O. Box 524, Council Bluffs, Iowa, 51502-0524 (712) 325-1000.
20. Loess Hills Scenic Byway. 220 miles of paved roads more or less paralleling I 29 and offering “a mosaic of designated roads through the heart of the scenic Loess Hills region of western Iowa.” For more detail read entries for Allwine Prairie and Loess Hills. A brochure including a map can be obtained from Welcome Centers in Iowa or by writing the Harrison County Museum RR #3, Box 130A, Missouri Valley, Iowa 51555.
21. Papillion Creek Dams, Omaha, NE. These dams were built by the Army Corps of Engineers for flood control and recreation, within the city limits. They are at Cunningham Lake at 90^th and State Streets (712) 444-5900; Standing Bear Lake at 138^th and Fort Streets; and Chalco Recreation Area (712) 444-5900 and Wehrspann Lake, at the junction of state route 50 (800) 444-6222.
22. Joslyn Museum, Omaha, NE. The museum has major collections of paintings by Karl Bodmer of the route of Lewis and Clark, made during the trip of Prince Maximillian in the 1830s, perhaps the first tourist trip to rediscover the journey of Lewis and Clark. Lacking photographic cameras, the prince brought along his own landscape painter. The museum is located at 2200 Dodge Street, Omaha, NE (402) 342-3300.
23. N. P. Dodge Memorial Park, Omaha, NE. This is where the expedition camped on July 28, 1804. The park is located at 11000 N. River Drive. For more information contact the Omaha Visitors Bureau at (800)-332-1819.
24. Neale Woods Nature Center, Omaha, NE. The nature center’s emphasis is on prairie restoration. For more detail, see entry on Fontenelle Forest Preserve. For more information contact Fontenelle Forest Nature Center, 14323 Edith Marie Ave., Omaha, NE 68112 (402) 453-5615.
25. Hayden Prairie State Preserve in Howard County. Site of original tall-grass prairie. For more detail read entries on Allwine Prairie and Loess Hills.
26. Hitchcock Nature Center, Honey Creek, Iowa. The nature center includes 800 acres with hiking trails through loess hills with wooded bluffs and native prairie. For more detail read entries on Allwine Prairie and Loess Hills. You can reach the center from Interstate 80, Exit 40 or call (712) 741-5465 for more information.
27. Boyer Chute National Wildlife Refuge near Omaha NE. Fishing and hiking available within 2,000 acres of woods, wetlands, and croplands. Boyer’s Chute has more visitor facilities than most National Wildlife Refuges. There is a two mile reconstructed chute – a slow moving water channel of the Missouri River – and restored wetlands. For more detail, read the entries on Big Muddy and Hamburg Bend and Grand Pass. Boyer’s Chute is located three miles east of Fort Calhoun. Information about the Chute can be obtained from the Fontenelle Forest Association which is a partner in its development and management. (402) 453-5615.
28. Plattsmouth, NE. An interesting side trip is to follow the Platte River to Lincoln, NE. The Platte has not been channelized, but its flow is less than in 1804 because much of the water is diverted for irrigation. However, the Platte retains much of the scenic aspect of a prairie river, with sandbars and cottonwoods. For more detail, read the entry Along the Platte River. Lincoln Chamber of Commerce (402)-436-2350.
29. Nine Mile Prairie, Lincoln, NE. This is one of the earliest attempts at prairie restoration and the subject of early ecological research. Relatively little used for scientific research at present; it offers an opportunity to see some of the prairie grasses and forbs. From the center of the city of Lincoln go west on “O” Street to Northwest 48th, travel north about four miles to Fletcher Avenue then turn west on Fletcher Avenue and drive about one mile. There is parking on right, the prairie is to the left. For more information contact the Wachiska Audubon Society at 4547 Calvert Street, Suite 10, Lincoln, NE 68506-5643, or call (402)-486-4846).
30. Grand Island, NE. This is a worthwhile site to visit during the sandhill bird migration, because as many as a half million of these birds stop here to feed. For more detail, read the entry on Grand Pass. Grand Island is located west of Lincoln on the Platte River. For more information, contact the Grand Island Visitors Bureau at P.O. Box 1486, Grand Isle, NE 68802 or call (800)-658-3178.
31. Riverton Wildlife Refuge. One of the locations along the Loess Hills Scenic Byway trip. See additional site 27 and entries for loess hills.
32. Midland Marina, Sioux City, Iowa. The marina is near the mouth of the Big Sioux River one of the major rivers that flows from Iowa and South Dakota into the Missouri River. Even though the hills are low in Iowa, there is a definite state divide, separating east from west. The rivers to the east flow to the Mississippi River, the rivers to the west flow into the Missouri River – the rivers and countryside of Lewis and Clark. 1100 Larsen Park Road, Sioux City, Iowa 51102. (712)-258-2000.
33. Sioux Falls Recreation Trail and Greenway, Sioux City, Iowa. 14-mile trail along the Missouri and the Big Sioux River which can be reached from the river front park in Sioux City.
34. Sioux City Park, Sioux City, Iowa. Fifty-seven city parks are located in and around the Sioux City area. For more information write Sioux City Parks and Recreation at P.O. Box 447, Sioux City, Iowa 51102 or call (712)-279-6126.
35. Sioux City Stone State Park, Sioux City, Iowa. Has excellent views of the Missouri River Valley & 3 states. For more information write the park at 4500 Sioux River Road, Sioux City, Iowa 51109 or call (712)-255-4698.
36. Loess Ridge Nature Center, Sioux City. Iowa. Site of a walk-under prairie and a 400 gallon aquarium of native fish. Located at 4500 Sioux River Road, Sioux City. (712)-258-0838
37. Clay County Park, Vermillion, SD. Camping and boat launching facilities on the wild and scenic stretch of the Missouri River. For further discussion, see the entry on Vermillion: On the Wild and Scenic Missouri. Located 2 miles southwest of Vermillion off South Dakota Hwy 50. (605)-987-2263.
38. Bike Trail, Yankton, SD. This bike trail has waterfront views of the Missouri River. For further discussion, see the entry on Vermillion: On the Wild and Scenic Missouri.
39. Riverside Park, Yankton, SD. On the Missouri River, a place where you can consider how cities and towns treat their waterfronts. From Route 81 go east on West 4^th Street and south on Douglas Avenue to the park.
40. Missouri National Recreational River, Gavins Point Dam to Ponca, NE State Park. 59 mile unchannelized stretch of the Missouri River from Gavins Point Dam to Ponca State Park – the longest remnant of the original Missouri except in Montana. For further discussion, see the entries on Vermillion: On the Wild and Scenic Missouri and Down the River and The Big Muddy. N.P.S. P.O. Box 591, O’Neill, NE, 68783. (402)-336-3970
41. National Fish Hatchery and Aquarium, Yankton, SD. The hatchery for native fish, including those of the Missouri River. For further discussion, see the entry on Hamburg Bend. Located three miles west of Yankton on Route 52. For more information call (605) 665-3352.
42. Gavins Point Dam, between Nebraska and South Dakota. The most downstream of the major dams on the Missouri River. The dam is earthen, is 74 feet high and 8700 feet long. The Lewis and Clark expedition held a council at Calumet Bluffs in the vicinity with Yankton Sioux on August 28, 1804. This council meeting is noted by interpretative signs at the dam and at Lewis and Clark State Recreation Area (see additional site #46). For further discussion, see the entries on Down the River and The Big Muddy. Gavins Point Dam is located on Nebraska Route 121 2 miles south of Yankton, SD. The Visitors Center is four miles west of Yankton in Nebraska at the south end of Gavins Point Dam. For more information, call (402) 667-7873.
43. Lewis and Clark State Recreation Area at Gavins Point Dam, SD. The recreation area has boat ramps on the reservoir formed by the dam, called Lewis and Clark Lake. The lake is used for recreation and is a place to see the benefits and alterations of the landscape created by such a reservoir. It is located five miles west of the Yankton on Route 52. For more information, call (402) 688-2985.
44. Ponca State Park, NE. The park is at the lower end of the 59 mile stretch of the Missouri River National Recreational River area and is one of the best public locations to see this section of the Missouri River from the shore. The channelized river begins here. Look upriver to see the “wild Missouri”, downstream to see the channelized river. Some of the wildlife you can see include wild turkeys, eagles and deer. For more information contact Ponca State Park, PO Box 688, Ponca, NE 68770 (402) 755-2384.
45. Blue Bluffs area. Historical marker locating the Lewis and Clark campsites of August 23, 24, and 25, 1804. For further discussion, see the entry on South Sioux City and the Bluffs on Fire.
46. Lewis and Clark Lake near Yankton, SD. The reservoir behind Gavins Point Dam where you can see bluffs overlooking the lake. The lake can be reached by following Route 12 to S54 to Santee, Nebraska, the headquarters of the Santee Sioux Indian Reservation. For more information call (402)-388-4169.
47. Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge near Valentine, NE. Site to view prairie terrain and drive through and see penned-in buffalo (about 375), elk (about 70), prairie dogs, and Texas Long-horn cattle. For further discussion, see the entry on Vermillion and Dixon: Buffalo Demise and Recovery. Located five miles east of Valentine, NE on Nebraska Route 12. For more information call (402) 376-3789.
48. Valentine National Wildlife Refuge, Valentine, NE, approximately 20 miles south of Valentine, NE on Route 83. More than 70,000 acres with many ponds and small lakes in the Sandhills and many water birds. For further discussion see entry on Grand Pass. Refuge Manager Fort Niobrara-Valentine National Wildlife Refuge Complex, HC 14 Box 67, Valentine, NE (402)-376-3789.
49. Niobrara River Wild and Scenic section, Valentine, Nebraska. Famous as one of the top ten canoeing rivers in the United States, a way to experience a prairie river with sandbars and snags from the water. (For further discussion, see entries on Niobrara River Meets the Missouri: Cedars Persist on the Bright Bluffs; Confluence of the Niobrara and Missouri Rivers: Lewis and Clark Begin to See the Animals of the West)
50. Big Bend Dam near Chamberlain, SD. One of the six major dams on the Missouri River. For further discussion, see the entry on Down the River. To visit the dam, take Interstate 90 west of Chamberlain to Route 47 north to Fort Thompson. For more information call the Army Corp of Engineers at (605)-245-2255.
51. Akta Lakota Museum, Chamberlain, SD. The museum is a good source of information about the Sioux Indian culture, which Lewis and Clark encountered on their journey. For more information contact Saint Joseph Indian School, Attention Akta Lakota Museum,North Main Street, Box 89, Chamberlain, SD 57325, or call (605)-734-3455.
52. Native American Loop Tour, Chamberlain, SD. A driving tour through the Crow Creek and Lower Brule Indian Reservations. Loop attractions include the Akta Lakota Museum, the Big Bend Dam and the Lower Brule Game Lodge. Self-guided brochures and audio cassettes are available. For more information contact the Chamberlain Chamber of Commerce located at 115 West Lawler, Chamberlain, SD 57325 or call (605)-734-6541.
53. Farm Island and Pierre, SD. Lewis and Clark hunted elk here. It is the site of the South Dakota’s first continuous settlement (started in 1817). Today there is fishing for walleye pike and hunting for geese. From the town of Pierre, take Sioux/ Wells Ave. This road connects with Hwy 34. Farm Island is 3-4 miles east of Pierre off of Hwy 34. For more information call (605)-224-5605 or write Farm Island, 1301 Farm Island Road, Pierre, SD, 57501-5829.
54. Fort Pierre National Grassland, Pierre, SD. For further discussion, see the entry on Little Missouri National Grasslands. Drive south on Route 83 from Pierre, or take Interstate 90 west from Chamberlain, at exit 212 go north on Route 83 to Fort Pierre National Grassland. P.O. Box 417, Pierre, SD 57501. (605)-224-5517.
55. Samuel H. Ordway Jr. Memorial Prairie, Eureka, SD. 7,600 acres with more than 300 species of plants as well as water birds and buffalo. For further discussion, see the entry on Dixon, Nebraska
56. Oahe Dam, Pierre, SD. One of the major dams on the Missouri River. For further discussion, see the entry on Down the River; The Big Muddy. Located 4 miles north of Pierre on Hwy 1804. For more information contact the Army Corp of Engineers at 28563 Powerehouse Road, Pierre, SD, 57501 or call (605)-224-5862.
57. Ashfall Fossil Beds State Historical Park, Royal, NE. You can see fossil rhinoceroses, horses, camels, from 10 million years ago when this area was a tropical grassland. There are also interpretative programs and nature trails to teach you about the geology, animals and plants of the Great Plains. Located South of Niobrara State Park near the junction of Routes 59 and 14. For more information, write Ashfall Fossil Beds State Historical Park, P. O. Box 66, Royal, NE 68773 or call (402) 893-2000.
58. Mouth of the Bad River, Fort Pierre, SD. Location of the Teton Council Site where Lewis and Clark held a council with the Teton Sioux on September 24, 1804. There is river access and a waterfront park here.
59. Custer State Park, Custer, SD. Tours of free-ranging buffalo herds provide one of the best locations to see buffalo. For further discussion, see the entry on Vermillion, South Dakota and Dixon, Nebraska: Buffalo Demise and Recovery. Take Route 385/16 toward Hill City, go into the town of Custer, make a left on Mr Rushmore Rd which will take you directly to the park. H C 83, Box 70, Custer, SD 57730. (605) 255-4515
60. Roughrider Trail, Bismarck, ND. 17 miles for hiking, horseback riding and snowmobiling, paralleling the Missouri River. For further discussion, see the entry on Fort Mandan. Roughrider Trail is located south of the Bismark.
61. Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park, Bismarck, ND. This is near the site of a Mandan village where Lewis and Clark would spend the winter. When they arrived, on October 21, 1804, they saw a beautiful plain “covered with herds of buffalo”, one of which they shot for food. For further discussion, see the entry on Fort Mandan. Located 7 miles south of Mandan on Hwy 1806. 4480 Fort Lincoln Road, Mandan, ND 58554. (701)-663-9571.
62. Garrison Dam, Bismarck, ND. One of the six major dams on the Missouri River. There is an exhibit area, camping and fishing. Lewis and Clark stopped here on August 13, 1806 on their return trip. For further discussion, see the entry on Fort Mandan. Hwy 200 West, Riverdale, ND 58565. Army Corp of Engineers (701)-654-7441 or (701)-654-7411.
63. Sakakawea State Park, Pick City, ND. The park is located on a peninsula that extends into Lake Sakakawea, the reservoir behind Garrison Dam. The park is primarily for RVs and motorboats. For further discussion, see the entry on Down the River.
64. Four Bears Park, northwest of Bismarck, ND. An interpretative center discusses the Lewis and Clark expedition, but focuses on the Indians of this region, the Arikara, Mandan, and Hidatsa. This area was visited by Lewis and Clark. For further discussion, see the entry on Knife River Indian Villages.
65. Cross Ranch State Park, HC2, Box 152, Sanger, ND 58567, Phone 701-794-3731. Off of ND Route 1806 between Washburn and Sanger. From Bismarck take I 94 west, then Route 25 north to Route 1806. Continue north on Route 1806. Said to be along one of the last free-flowing stretches of the Missouri River in North Dakota, the park is located among cottonwood trees along the river. The park has camp grounds and a log cabin that can be rented, a boat ramp, canoes for rent, a Visitor Center and 15 miles of hiking trails that connect the part to the Cross Ranch Nature Preserve, a property of The Nature Conservancy. Waterflow including white pelicans are seen there.
66. Little Missouri State Park, north of Killdeer on Route 22. This park, covering almost 6,000 acres, fronts picturesque Bad Lands scenery along the Missouri River. It is a primitive park with hiking and horseback access. Horses can be rented and guides are available. Mule deer, golden eagles are present.
67. Sully Creek State Recreation Area, just outside Medora, ND off of Interstate 94. Canoe access to the Little Missouri River, North Dakota only officially listed scenic river, provides an opportunity to be on a prairie river. See the entry about the Niobrara River. The Little Missouri passes through bad lands countryside. There is a hiking trail connecting this recreation area to the Little Missouri National Grassland and the Theodore Roosevelt National Park, south sections.
68. Lewis and Clark State Park, ND. Interpretative sign.
69. Theodore Roosevelt National Park, ND, North Section, is one of the few national facilities where you have a good chance to see bison. This part of the park has a herd of about ___ hundred bison which are frequently seen roaming, feeding, and resting along a 14 mile drive through the park. Mule deer, white-tailed deer and other wildlife can be seen against a beautiful and picturesque badland scenery created by the canyon of the Little Missouri River. This river was displaced by the continental glaciers from its preglacial bed, and since the end of the ice age has worn a canyon through soft sedimentary rocks. The park in off of ND route 85, which can be reached from the North from Williston, ND. An interesting day trip from Williston is to visit the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri and then travel to the National Park.
70. Medicine Lake National Wildlife Refuge. More than 9,000 Pelicans nest here and can be seen from April to September. From Williston, ND take Route 2 west, to Culbertson, MT, then north on Route 16. Just before the town of Medicine Lake is a sign marking the entry to the Wildlife Refuge, to the right. There is an auto route on a gravel road. A two mile side road, somewhat rough, leads to a pelican overlook with binocular scopes. From there you can see hundreds of pelicans. Many other waterfowl and upland short and mid-grass prairie birds use the Refuge, including American Bitterns, coots, the endangered piping plover. Research at the refuge is done to enhance the production and persistence of the waterfowl and prairie birds. For further discussion see the entry on Grant’s Pass.
71. Fort Peck Dam. Take Route 2; from the east, take Route 117 southwest. From the west, take route 24 from Glasgow southeast. It is useful to see if effects of the large dams on the river, and to see the large earthen dams. The Army Corps of Engineer operates a wildlife pasture with a few bison and antelope, reached by a dirt road near the dam. Although clearly penned up, the animals are at least readily visible if you are unable to see these elsewhere. The Fort Peck National Wildlife Refuge has many access roads. Its primary goals are the conservation of sharp-tailed grouse and black footed ferrets, as well as the prairie dogs on which the ferrets feed. In recent years, European plague has decimated the prairie dog population. As a result, the ferrets, first reintroduced into the area in 1994, have not increased as hoped. Maps can be obtained from the Refuge office which is located near the Missouri River just after it leaves the dam.
72. Bowdoin National Wildlife Refuge, Malta, MT. Take Route 2 to Malta. The entrance to the Refuge is a few miles northeast of the town on Old Route 2. Traveling from the east, a sign about 10 miles before Malta directs you onto old route 2 from which there is much good wildlife viewing of the Refuge. An auto tour of 15 miles leads from the Refuge and circles the lake. A high clearance vehicle, preferably with four-wheel drive, is desirable for this road. Bowdoin offers some of the best viewing of waterbirds along the entire trail, and is a major nesting area of Pelicans. For further discussion see the entry on Grant’s Pass.
73. Loma Ferry Crossing. A put-in location for boat trips down the Missouri River and a place to view the white cliffs region of the river. This is an area where the river still follows its natural course. Also available nearby is the Richard E. Wood Wildlife Viewing Area. For further discussion see the entries on Fort Peck Dam and the Milk River and The Mouth of the Marias River.
74. Black Eagle in the vicinity of Fort Benton, Montana. An opportunity to see farm country of Montana. It was named “Black Eagle” by Lewis and Clark because the Indians told them they would see a black eagle at the falls of the Missouri. Located about 36 miles from Fort Benton.
75. The Benton Belle, a small tourist boat, operates out of Fort Benton, taking people on a short ride on the Missouri. It is one of the new opportunities to travel by boat that are developing in response to the growing interest in Lewis and Clark. Phone 406-XXX-XXXX (?)
76. Carter Ferry, Carter Montana. Between Fort Benton and Great Falls. A sign on Highway 87(?) Directs you to Carter on a gravel road. Another sign on the gravel road tells whether the ferry is operating. The ferry is one of the last cable ferries. It is a flat-bottomed barge with an inboard engine, guided by two cables across the river. The barge can move back and forth sole from the force of the river waters on it, because of the design of the pulleys that hold the barge to the upper cable. It provides a way to cross and therefore to be on the upper Missouri for those who do not wish to take a canoe trip down the river. Carter Ferry is approximately three miles on a gravel road from the paved highway.
77. Fort Belknap Indian Reservation of the Gros Ventre and Assiniboine Tribes, Montana. There are guided tours to various buttes, canyons and buffalo range. About 300 buffalo on a 10,000 acre reserve can be seen on daily guided tours. For further discussion, see the entry on Vermillion and Dixon: Buffalo Demise and Recovery. From Great Falls, Montana take U.S. Route 87 north to U.S. Route 2 east, then drive south on Montana Route 66 to the Fort Belknap Reservation Visitor Center. Or you can drive north from Billings, Montana on U.S. Route 87 to Montana Route 19 and on north to U.S. Route 191 to Route 66. For more information contact Tribal Buffalo Tours, RR1, Box 66, Fort Belknap Agency, Harlem, Montana 59526 (406) 353-2205.
78. Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge, Montana. On their journey west, Lewis and Clark spent 13 days within today’s Charles M. Russell Wildlife Refuge. This refuge is the second largest wildlife refuge in the continental United States. There are some original prairie as well as sagebrush and ponderosa pines. A visitor can see raptors, antelope, deer, grouse and prairie dogs, and one of the largest remaining prairie elk herds. The U. S. Fish and Wildlife Service warns that the gravel roads of the tour route may become impassable during extended periods of rain, so use proper caution. For further discussion, see the entry on Little Missouri National Grasslands and Theodore Roosevelt National Park: Prairie Dogs, Black Footed Ferrets and the Short-Grass Prairie. The refuge has a 20-mile auto tour route that begins 55 miles south of Malta off US 191 and ends one-half mile north of the Missouri River on US 191. P.O. Box 110, Lewistown, Mt, 59457. (406)-538-8706.
79. James Kipp Recreation Area. This is a Bureau of Land Management facility at the upstream end of the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge. This recreation area provides the easiest automobile access to the Missouri Breaks. It is at the downstream end of the Wild and Scenic section of the Missouri. It is also a good boat access for pulling out after a float through that section, or for putting in for a float downstream through the Wildlife Refuge and to the reservoir above Fort Peck Dam. Lewis and Clark camped two and one-half miles upstream from this location on May 24, 1805. The recreation area is just south of the Robinson Bridge on Montana Route 191 and 19, which can be reached from the north from Malta or from the south from Billings by taking Montana Route 87 north to Montana 19. There is a auto tour via a dirt road, recommended only for high clearance four-wheel drive vehicles, and impassable when wet. (For an explanation about the soil that makes up that road, see entry 38 The Mouth of the Marias River: Which Was the Best Way West? See also entry 39, Ryan Dam: Scenery and Electricity. (Both are Dept. Of Interior facilities, but the Wildlife Refuge is managed by the U. S. Fish and Game. )
80. Crooked Falls, Montana. Located in Cascade County, Montana, north of Malmstrom Air Force Base at Great Falls, Montana.
81. Upper Missouri National Wild and Scenic River, Montana. One of a handful of stretches where the river is neither dammed nor channelized, you can go on a canoe camping trip and see the Missouri River much as it appeared in this area to Lewis and Clark. There are various put-in locations and detailed maps that are available for boaters from the Bureau of Land Management. A growing number of outfitters provide guided trips down this portion of the Missouri River including: Missouri River Outfitters, Fort Benton, Montana (406) 622-3295; and Missouri River Canoe Company, Virgelle, Montana (800)-426-2926. For further discussion, see the entries on Confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers: Wolves and the Conservation of Endangered Species and Fort Benton, Montana: Caches, Geology and the Location of Cities; Ryan Dam: Scenery and Electricity; Fort Peck Dam and the Pines Recreation Area: Grizzlies and the Conservation of Endangered Species) This 149 mile stretch of the Missouri River is located between Kipp State Park and Fort Benton, Montana.
82. Geraldine and Square Butte, Montana. Wildlife viewing area. This is a natural area under the jurisdiction of the Bureau of Land Management located on Route 80 between Fort Benton and Loma, Montana.
83. Earth Science Museum, Loma, Montana. The museum has gems, minerals, fossils and Indian artifact. Located 10 miles past Fort Benton off Hwy 86 on Main Street. (406) 739-4488.
84. Lewis and Clark Pass, Great Falls, Montana. Location of the footpath that follows the Indian trail around the Great Falls that was used by Lewis and Clark for their portage.
85. River Edge Trail, Great Falls, Montana. The trail passes by Crooked Falls, the only remaining undammed falls that Lewis and Clark portaged around. There are 7 miles of paved trail along the Missouri River from Gibson Park at 10^th Avenue South in downtown Great Fall to Giant Springs Heritage State Park, close by the new Interpretive Center is located. For more information contact Giant Springs Heritage State Park Giant Springs Road, Great Falls, MT 59408. (406) 727-8733.
86. Lewis and Clark National Forest, Great Falls, Montana. There is a scenic byway. From Great Falls take Route 89 southeast to the forest. 1101 15^th Street North, Box 869, Great Falls, MT, 59403, (602)-547-3361.
87. Canyon Ferry Lake, Helena, MT. There are numerous state recreation areas located in this region. Some have Lewis and Clark interpretation markers. For further discussion, see entry on Gates of the Mountain Recreation Area: Continents Collide and We Raft Along in Their Wake.
88. Ulm Pishkun Buffalo Jump, Ulm, MT. For further discussion, see entry on Judith Landing Recreation Area: How Early People May Have Affected Wildlife. From Great Falls take Interstate 15 west 12 miles to the exit for Ulm. Follow signs to a monument and picnic area. The picnic area is 4 miles from Interstate exit. For more information contact the Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks at P.O. Box 6609, Great Falls, MT 59406. (406)-454-3441.
89. Vicinity of Three Forks, MT. The forests up-slope from the Missouri River provide an introduction to the forests of the Rockies and to the geology of the Rockies. For further discussion, see entry on Three Forks, MT: The Origin of the Missouri River.
90. Madison Buffalo Jump State Park, Bozeman, MT. Near the mouth of the Judith River, downstream from Great Falls, Lewis and Clark found what Lewis described as a buffalo jump. But there has been a disagreement as to whether this countryside could have been a location for such an activity. This method of killing buffalo was common, however, and you can see a buffalo jump used for 2,000 years. For further discussion, see entry on Judith Landing Recreation Area, Montana: How Early People May Have Affected Wildlife. From Three Forks take Interstate 90 east to Bozeman and take exit 283 south, following signs for the Buffalo Jump. From the exit on the interstate, the park is a 7 mile drive, 6 miles of the drive is on a gravel road. For more information contact the Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks at 1400 South 19^th, Bozeman, MT 59715 or call (406)-994-6934.
91. National Bison Range, Montana. U. S. Fish and Wildlife National Wildlife Refuge. Although not a location seen by Lewis and Clark, it is one of the best places today to view bison, bighorn sheep, mule and white-tailed deer, and antelope that is in a reasonable travel distance from the Missouri River. The Columbia ground squirrel is common. They resemble prairie dogs but are smaller and whistle rather than bark. Like prairie dogs, they live in towns, come up out of burrows and sit on their back feet and look around. Also present but harder to see are red and gray fox, coyotes, a few couger, badger and porcupine..The Range has a herd of approximately 500 buffalo. The vegetation is short-grass prairie grading into pines on the upper slopes and to wetland vegetation along the drainage. The wetlands include cattails, rushes, and lush shrubs. The steep mountains of Glacier National Park are readily visible and beautiful as a backdrop to the range. The range has the highest density of big-game wildlife, in terms of pounds per acre, of any location in the United States. Wildlife can be readily seen on most days, but require attention to the countryside. I have watched people in cars busy talking with each other drive past 18 bighorn sheep just off the road in the shade of some trees. The range is most easily reached from Missoula, Montana. Take Interstate 90 north to US 93. Follow signs to Glacier National Park and the Bison Range. At Ravalli follow the sign to the Bison Range that take you to the range. It is approximately 50 miles from Missoula to the Range.
92. Pompey’s Pillar, Billings, MT. This Bureau of Land Management and National Historic Landmark is the only known existing location where Clark inscribed his name. On July 25th, 1806, Clark wrote in his journal that the rock which he named Pompey’s Tower was “200 feet high and 400 paces in circumference and only accessible on one side. The natives have engraved on the face of this rock the figures of animals, etc., near which I mark my name and the day of the month and year.” Many birds come through this area including bald eagles and white pelicans. From this location you can see the cottonwoods along the Yellowstone River. For further discussion, see entry on Confluence of the Yellowstone and the Missouri Rivers: Wolves and the Conservation of Endangered Species.
93. Gallatin National Forest, Bozeman, MT. Clark passed through the area where Bozeman is now on July 14th, 1806. For further discussion, see entry on Three Forks, MT: The Origin of the Missouri River.
94. Greycliff Prairie Dog Town State Monument Wildlife Viewing Area, Billings, MT. This 98 acre park is open year round. There are many interpretive displays that introduce the visitor to the blacktailed prairie dog community. For further discussion, see entry on Little Missouri National Grasslands and the Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota: Prairie Dogs, Black Footed Ferrets and the Short-Grass Prairie. Located off Interstate 90 about 77 miles west of Billings, Montana. For more information contact Montana fish, Wildlife and Parks at 2300 Lake Elmo Drive, Billings, Mt 59105 or call them at (406)-252-4654.
95. Makoshika State Park, Glendive MT, a major site for dinosaurs and for badlands countryside. This park shows the landscape that was laid down under the sea that once existed in Montana, and was uplifted when the Rockies were formed. The park contains the famous “Cretaceous-tertiary boundary” — the time when many dinosaurs went extinct. (406) 365-6256. Montana Dept. Of Fish, Wildlife and Parks. See Entry about Gates of the Mountains.